Autumn Entry

For those of you that don't know I've gone back to school, maybe more on that in a later entry. This blog is horribly behind and my climbing journal is too - but I've been doing a little. Last week I was finally able to lead Theoretically on Practice Rock clean. I might have done my last rock for the season, we'll see - it's been a nice mellow fall. It's the middle of October and its the first night that I've had to cover the tomatoes.

This past weekend Ron and I went camping/climbing and tried to knock off a few open projects and end the season with a bang. The pack got a little heavy because there is no water source so we loaded up on the way in. I over did it a bit... 3 gallons for 2 days, maybe half a gallon less next time. Other notable challenges include rats and more rats. Over the course of just this summer three different ropes got chewed on and had to be trimmed down in length, one on this last trip. Them rats also make it challenging to bear proof your food b/c they chew the cord and then dig in to your stash. Next time, unless I just sleep with my food and brave the possible consequence of any bears, I'm gonna take a steel cable - I ain't kidding.

Mostly it was a pretty humbling trip, we didn't "knock off" the big project I was gunning for. It was fun but I wasn't feeling too rad or hardcore. Energy levels weren't as high as normal and it didn't seem like I had my head in it. We started the climbing with a fun reachy job that goes up a very aesthetic line over a nice overlap. It was the first time I think I've ever done an obligatory heel hook. Next we tr'ed a "retardedly hard" 12? I was able to scratch through most of it but friction can be frustrating. Power to hang on and core tension/coordination to yet move - thats an interesting equilibrium. Wow, hmm - I'd like to take it up a couple of notches. Then we meandered over to a beautiful low angle crack and got up a ramp to the top of a "new" formation. Castle-eering at its finest - perfect rock up a cruiser 5.4 crack. Then not quite satisfied I rambled around on some 5.7ish rock that proved a little more intriguing to protect, trying to pick a line that had more challenge, but not too much lichen. Then off to camp! Sweet spot overhanging boulder...beautiful stars, elk bugling, coyotes howling, city lights in the distance, camp fire casting a nice glow...

Day two we opted for some rock that would catch morning sun the soonest. We went to another unknown/new formation and ooed and awed and pondered at the cleanest/easiest/best line to take. I was psyched to hog steal my share of the leads but after it was all said and done I was glad Ron had taken his turn - there was a heady section transitioning between crack systems with a bit of "what if" factor (and ball bearing gruss in a critical pocket). We played the same game on another nearby fin formation. I took my big green friend and did a 5.8 offwidth variation of an otherwise beautiful 5.6. Then we boogied back, grabbed camp and all our miscellany, and headed for one last quick evening project. Picking up on something Ron said I kept continuously referring to it as, before we even got there, the "Grand Finale". I was gung ho to send something hard but again Ron rightfully claimed his turn and after it was over I was exceedingly glad I hadn't gotten on the sharp end. It was quite a unique route - amazingly featured rock, long, steep, and with multiple crux's. I don't think there would have been a snowballs chance in hell that I could have onsighted it - even with coaching I almost botched the top. On the summit I really didn't get to hang out long but there was unique great big "bathtub" heucos. I was suprised at how exposed the whole climb felt, it was pretty constantly challenging and airy feeling. It was a sighs of relief kinda climb; glad to get to the top, glad to get back down. Another one to add to my list that I'm going to have to go back and lead.

So over the course of the weekend I got my share of rappelling off so-so chockstones and horns. If it was the last rock of the season it truly was a grand finale and yet a good transition to next season. There is still projects to train for, like what I call the most beautiful crack I've ever seen - awesome little finger pods. I just need to figure out 5.11 crack... so I can lead that second pitch (the picture below). Next year? I hope so!