getting there

Ice season is warming up! The weekend wasn't everything I had intended, but it turned out ok. And I think I'm finally beginning to recover from it - that's welcomed.

Determined not to ditch my friend Page, I left at Odark30 to get down to Boz and rendezvous for a quick trip up Hyalite. We got a quick try at the Sceptre which got us both pretty wet. Then it was down to the Beartooths where Ron and I found a nice campground. Out of the wind, nice warm temps, burbling brook nearby. Couldn't ask for more. But I didn't sleep well; too much caffeine, achy back, anticipation? At 1am we got up and chowed, broke camp, and by 1:45 we were on the ta ta trail, wait... well we were bushwacking away toward never never land. I said "Are you sure this is legal?" hmm well we did due justice to checking out the drainage that should have been 'da bomb', but it wasn't. It was hideously steep and thick with downfall from windstorms. More snow and colder temps would have let us perhaps walk up the creek where the going looked good but we came to the realization that our sneek attack was failing so we turned around again. Back to the car by 5:15 with 2 hours to kill till daylight to see if the Anti-Duct was in shape. We decided the stoke was gone and headed back for some French toast and a nap. Good choice. Look at pictures - keep the dream alive.

I got back to Boze for some delish dinner at the Lockie household, had a nice warm bed, and got to play pranks on the Beckster. After a good breakfast and church I even got to go climbing again, because Ron needed an excuse to get my gaiter back to me. The velcro had stuck to his shell and so we nabbed a couple sweet afternoon climbs before the following week of cold weather and crazy buzy work descended upon us. Sticks were good in nice, mostly plastic ice, and we both got in a good lead - on a variation of Hangover that neither of us had done before. Besides the dinnerplate that almost pulled Ron off (and decapitated me) it was a very pleasant outing.

Well tomorrow has enough worries of its own eh?

Picture of Das Eis Ice with Luke and Aubrin back in '05?

I guess I am actually getting this Thanksgiving weekend figured out, but the December Bellingham trip is getting challenging. I'm pressing forward determined that I have made a good decision I am not going to back out of - its just wierd the way sometimes you make plans and then (literally) all heaven or hell breaks loose to redirect you or keep you from your blessing... OH for just a closer walk with God to discern the difference!

This weekend I started up an ice climb that turned into a bit of debacle. Winter was coming down the gully and pelting me in the face so I put on my goggles. I went up, put a screw in and climbed back down with a neckfull of gropply snow. With hood up I tried again. It seemed like a monumental effort to concentrate and make progress with a concert of winter hammering on my helmet. I got to the "commitment point" and noticed that my crampons (on new boots) seemed strangely loose. I'm suprised they never fell off... And my goggles fogged up. That pretty much sealed it - I bailed. I put in another screw at the high-point and we top-roped that bit of it a couple times. My friend went up and the spindrift stopped while he climbed. I got re-stoked, then when I got on it, with crampons tightened and thinking about going for the top again, winter resumed its vengance. The toproping was fun but then getting off I had ice anchor challenges... thankfully I finished and was packing up by time I got the headlight out! Good silly fun all in all. Good lessons learned, good training.

The Bozeman Trail

Back to the big rock again. We succeeded on a couple more interesting limey climbs. This time I wore old desert camo cotton pants! Who cares right? Well last time I wore something synthetic, R.B. wore his thin denim. No burrs stuck to him, yet I was carpeted with them, like someone designed those seeds to spread. Good pants were a major happy factor - or at least a big annoyance not to be bothered by.

Ron started up to the cliff while I got water from the creek. I misguided myself up a harder approach. Bummer. I got back on route and then the bowling for Olin began. Big rock crashing my way - I couldn't see it. Thankfully it wasn't close and it missed. Yeah life! Ron got the ropes set and scoped out the route on rappell. Perpetual rockfall, one very large gutterball. Yikes. He found that the new addition to our rack indeed worked like it was specifically made for the situation. Black Tricam happiness. The route would have a much more distinctive flair without it.

It was a long belay session while Ron toproped but I had a decently comfortable belay cave with beautiful scenery. I had a mini tantrum making tapegloves, but once finally on the climb I was glad that I had made them. The lead took a long time, partly because Ron was almost completely blinded by the sun and couldn't see the next move. It was a great pitch, Ron had all the pro he needed. He used his slings well and there was very minimal rope drag. Much happiness. I'm listening to IZ now and it reminds me of my first climb up the formation when we were above a rainbow - how often does that happen? Good feelings. I had a good lunch of a roast beef sammy and fresh garden peas. When I climbed I got all the gear to come out easily enough, the tricam was a little reachy for a pint size like me and I think I had to use an alternative stance from where it was placed from. It was a way cool climb on mostly good quality rock. The rock was steep and very featured yet there was good crack for jams and protection and dished ledges and other features for foot placements. Pretty awesome as far as limestone climbing goes and all natural gear. I was going to assign points and compare all the plusses and minus's but I don't think there would be any point; it was a stellar climb. We got the ropes pulled without incident - sweet. Then we went to the nearby climb called "Touch The Clouds" - named after a great Lakota indian chief.

I tried for the redpoint of TTC's first pitch. On the day of TTC's FA I had to hang on some of the draws. This time I got the 2nd bolt clipped and was trying to get on up to the third when I decided I was too pumped and it was not going to be pretty, I didn't want to ruin a good day so I went back over into the corner and continued up to the top... another new gear climb variation that avoids the flashpump. Pretty good climbing, just a minor tree snag to get around.

Catastrophic success

I had a blast but you didn't miss out on too much today... or maybe you did. At the base of the formation we saw a cow moose with twins, kinda cool. We did the new 'Catastrophic' variation up that meets up with another bigger line we had previously done. I can't tell you how frickin awesome it is to bolt on lead. --- Because I haven't done it! --- From what I can tell, it looks like its pretty cumbersome. Probably like aid climbing - you really have to get a system down and practice it.

What I can tell you is that my dream of onsight freeclimbing some limestone came true today. I volunteered for the first pitch because I thought I didn't have a clue where the second pitch was supposed to finish. It was all natural gear in a corner crack system with unknown stuff, probably ledges, for a belay. I decided I'd haul up the drill if I needed it. I didn't, it was sweet 5.7 with a dance around a death block that I said would be catastrophic if it came off, frickin monster, I'm glad it stayed put. Then Ron led with the drill, carrying it. It looked heavy, like it was turning 5.6 into 5.9+ b/c of the extra weight. He placed a bolt to avoid some pretty broken rock and cut the pitch off to regroup at the base of another steep section. Given the variability of the quality of the rock it took me a while to psych up for the next pitch. Our two options were: 1. going up left via a steep but pretty clean looking line that goes past another large block/flake that would probably take out the belayer if dislodged or 2. going up a slightly less clean and more challenging way with questionable protection, only partly attractive because its angle eased off sooner, unfortunately it looked like broken nastiness. I decided to go for it and I chose option 1. I thought there would be no way for me to succeed with the weight of the drill in tow so I left it behind again, thinking I could get gear in close to my point of commitment for the block. It turned out well. It was 5.8ish and sorta heady moving up by the block and trying to get past it without reefing on it - all the while wondering if there was going to be any good protection above. It worked fine with only slight cleaning required. You pop out on this ridge and romp on 5.4 to join up with the other route. Once you join it you can clip a bolt and pull a move of 5.8 and your at the chains. They all lived happilly ever after... until they got the ropes snarled trying to rappell, and ohh what a place to do it. I threw a lasso around a tree... special.

Death march enjoyed by self

On Aug.10th I went on a nice hike up to a nice secret place; 30 mile round trip overnighter in 27 hours. Most of the way out my feet hurt more than they have in a long time, but I just had to smile through the pain, it was worth it. The trail on the way up was loaded with berries so thick you could smell them. But better yet, the mountain was the coolest thing I'd seen all summer. There was water drizzling all around, waterfalls misting off of lofty cliffs. I'm so excited for it to freeze up. I really think and hope that it's gonna be excellent ice climbing. It should be an awesome trip when it happens... except for the approach which can't be made any shorter than about ten miles, thats part of the glorious challenge. Can't wait to get the film developed. Maybe I'll post a picture of the misty coolness.

Summer Flies

It all goes so fast. Well I haven't even kept up on the climbing journal but I'm in Great Falls now for a couple weeks so hopefully a bit of reflection AND training. I hope to tie up and file alot of loose ends and old notes, I'd like to throw away a bunch of stuff - declutter the mind. Since the last post we went back once or twice more, I don't remember - three times to the general area I think. The previous comment about there not being enough time held true both times in the remote part. I have the feeling more could be done but it would be an epic day, with the 2hr hike on each side of the day I think it would be easy to get carried away.

Lest I forget I must mention the good adventures and exploration other places. My last climb with Dan (till I can visit him in CA) was up the Mutt and Jeff route on the Wedge by Dillon - super climb in a cool location. Then there was a spontaneous trip to Mt. Tweedy in the Pioneers with Jon Toner - we got abuzz with electricity on the 4th of July (praise God not struck). There was a quick trip up into the Cowen cirque with friends and XA students. Trying to make use of days off last week I went with friends into the Beartooths and was thoroughly impressed that the weatherman was right about the chance of rain. Not wanting to findout about the forecast for snow we didn't even spend the night. We just took our pictures and hightailed it home... After a stop at the RedLodge taphouse. The next day I went climbing up behind Morgan Cemetary and was reminded how heady some of the climbing is and why it was that I named a certain route "Desperado". http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsLylyEoLDo&feature=related The weather was threatening among other excuses so we didn't get as much done as I hoped. The following day was coolish temps so I went back and finished bolting a project that has been a while in the making - something I'd like to call "Epitaph" if I can ever get it climbed - good training motivation.

Jon in the meadow.

The rock of Mt. Tweedy - you can see the N. ridge we climbed, but not the summit proper, nor did my feet tread upon it. Oh, and on the hike out I got good and lost. I'll try not to seperate from a partner again...

Jon being silly.

So to rewind somewhere into history: the next trip (#2 or was it 3?) to the "undisclosed" area was to just TR "Titanic"a project of !%#'s I decided not even to try that but to jump on this unclimbed, nasty, awkward, traversing offwidth. It almost went, I'll go back - hopefully more triumphantly next time. Deciding to try another new line I did a new unlikely looking 5.9+ that turned out to be excellent. That pitch was to get to the top of the formation so I could get the gear out that I lowered off of on the other climb. I've got to go back and get the redpoint on that too b/c I used a spot of aid. After all my thrashing that day even my torso was doing the sewing machine shake.
One of those trips we went back in and climbed this cool tower - "Snoopy":

It is rather imposing but upon further inspection we found a weakness on the backside, a challenging 5.9 with somewhat dubious gear that goes up a short steep section and then heads up the summit slab - there is a 5.6 ramp at one just one small spot that isn't overhanging. After that we went to the other rock via the backside sneaky cave and I got to lead the traversing chimney. It was alot more fun to lead than to follow. We both rapelled the project route and did a bit of cleaning and surveying. It got awfully dark and we tenatively pulled the ropes hoping not to create too much static. Then we hunkered down while it rained and nature put on a sound show.

Trip #4 we went back and I climbed to the top of Snoopy up a good challenging off width that met up with the other route near the top. (Note: Two weeks of scabs prove it's unwise to climb off width in a tank top.) That was just to "warm-up". Then we went and tried the project PS 18:34. I got up the first pitch! Not 5.9, it was probably the hardest thing I've led on gear to date, probably mid to hard 5.10. It seemed techy and thin to get up underneath the "death block", the dagger that is broken off and wedged in the crack. Once I got to it I was able to use it for good hand jams, it was pretty sketchy to climb around, but it didn't budge at all. The rest was great 5.8 to 5.9 climbing, a wonderful "full value" pitch. So far, so good, but when !%# started leading P2 we realized that he was too fatigued from his recently successful efforts at redpointing Titanic. He downclimbed and we wisely backed off. It was still plenty exciting rappelling on two hex's, but we got away without leaving any nesting material for the local pack-rats.

It seems like the story goes... "They all went home and went to work the next day..." but I want to write a chapter "They climbed all fall and lived happily ever after." It might happen. It could happen, by golly - I think it will! With the joy of my Salvation I'll take whatever comes and make the most of today. God lead me into your plans for me. Amen.

Ramblings about rock.

The ideas picture (use your imagination) has a red trace of one of the first things I want to do: get up that big Chimney. Its just kind of a must do 5.7/8?. Last fall I led a gardening, rope drag monster of a 5.8+ pitch that took us to a hidden hole in the wall that we could have walked up around the backside to. From there ?#$ led a weird pitch that involved traversing, then down climbing into the chimney and then traversing about 20? feet unprotected across the top of this chimney, with like 50' of air under your heels. Somehow he did this while keeping the backpack with drill in tow off his harness. While following I kept thinking if I fall I'm gonna get stuck and not be able to get out. We found out last week that the entrance ramp is guarded by crumbly and/or wet rock. I proposed stacking rocks to make a ladder up onto the ramp, but it was decided to be a silly notion. So probably the best way would be to traverse in around from the sunny side on good rock. The chimney is (mostly?) perfect forearm length - really secure body chimneying and it has a crack that should take gear that pops out right at our anchors for the project I'm calling ps18:34.

I dont know that the picture really does it justice, the top pitch is very foreshortened. I think the first pitch will be full value 5.9. I'll be needing extra credit to get up past the belay and through the fingery section. It gets reeeaaally thin but has the occassional pod that opens up that makes it climbable/protectable - aidable anyway. Then it opens up into hands for 15m and then fists/bigfists for 15+m. There isn't much for feet, just smears. I imagine that it is going to be super pumpy! I'm excited to try it! There is ramp at the bottom and we were just able to get down to the high side with 2 60's.

We are wanting to give it a brush and check out the pro. I don't know that we are going to toprope it... I know its not the adventurous ground up style but what can I say, its harder than anything I've ever done. I'd like to have the gear I need and not too much that I don't. There is SOOO many possibilities that these pictures don't show. It is almost just a tease to go back to this place without camping. On a one day deal there just isn't enough time or energy to climb more than about 2 pitches.